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All that a man is, and hankers to be, is precisely expressed by the cloth and cut of his tailoring – or by its absence in his wardrobe.
THE SUIT 101
- You get what you pay for \ a brutal truth as applicable to off-the-rack poly-Chinese cheapies as it is to Savile Row bespokes.
- Pure wool cloths preserve their shape and sleekness \ wool blends do, too – at a pinch. Poly-cloths, not at all.
- Pick and fit is trickier than you think \ get help to measure if you’re buying online, buy only from shops with experienced staff, or make friends with a made-to-measure, custom or bespoke tailor.
For some, the suit is a refuge of benign, easy-to-assemble sartorial components. For others, like British model and former lawyer Richard Biedul, it’s an institution ripe for revolt, subversion and some flapping, oversized layers of fancy colour and thick wintry texture.
- Calibre’s Hardy Mid Blue pure wool two-button double-vent jacket, $599, and matched trouser, $249, are adaptable to dress codes from corporate to lounge suit with a quick switch of shirt and shoes. calibre.com.au
- Roger David’s navy wool-blend RDX Tommy Textured, cut skinny with narrow lapels, discreet jet pockets and a single vent, is an affordable, all-season, two-to-three-year investment for suiting first-timers, $309 (was $515). rogerdavid.com.au
- Arthur Galan Jamie pure wool jacket, $549, and matched trousers, $249, make a sharp, dark, grown-up suit that, if you treat it kindly, will look smashing long beyond now. online.arthurgalan.com.au
LOOK WHAT I FOUND
Book a Suit Shop appointment at level one, 1a Crossley Street, Melbourne, submit to a tailor’s pernickety measurements, select your cloth, style and cut, and a skilled craftsman will deliver the most satisfying sartorial prize a man could own.
This custom navy serge twill merino suit, $1110, and Egyptian cotton twill shirt, $155. suitshop.com.au