My strongest memory of Turkey is of the Bosphorus; a thin strip of twinkling turquoise glinting through every window and doorway.
So it’s fitting that the first thing I glimpse through Tulum’s shopping-strip doorway is an equally vivid tiled wall, which doubles as support for jars of pickled turnips and rosewater.
There’s a clear emphasis on pickles and ferments throughout the menu, too, adding a welcome acidity and dimension to a vege-centric array of Turkish mezze (share plates).
Chef Coskun Uysal brings out our first bowl, beaming as he tells us that it’s inspired by his favourite after-school snack. The dish, a rich egg yolk, hidden under crispy chicken skin, oozes into the burnt butter and house-smoked yoghurt as you dip your pide through. It poses quite a conundrum: what to taste first – the chicken or the egg?
Memory plays a big part in many of the dishes. The piquancy of the dolma – lamb-stuffed onion with Turkish apple sauce – is inspired, and if you close your eyes while eating the confit artichokes, you can almost imagine fields of chamomile and dill, with honey bees buzzing around.
- 217 Carlisle Street, Balaclava
- 9525 9127
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