They call it the Madonna effect – the art of constantly refreshing one’s “brand” to avert boredom and stay ahead of the curve. It’s something George Calombaris has turned into an art form as he continuously tweaks and expands his dining empire.
The celebrity chef is set to open a fourth Hellenic Republic, bringing his style of casual-chic dining to Brighton. Meanwhile, he’s refreshing things at his city temple of haute cuisine The Press Club, opening seven days a week and relaxing the degustation-only dictum to make way for what he calls “accessible luxury”.
The dining room feels as stylishly opulent as ever with its sculptural copper ceiling and buttery leather booths evoking a luxury train dining car. And you can still indulge in a five-course Kerasma tasting menu that winds from a luxe asparagus soup through multiple savoury delights to a silky rice pudding.
But now you can also choose your own adventure, popping in, perhaps, for a quick bowl of creamy taramosalata scooped up with marble-sized salt and vinegar loukoumades, followed by a blushing rack of Flinders Island lamb. Or you might want to share a Barossa Valley suckling pig for two, moving on to a delicate and mod take on baklava. It’s a show-stopper worthy of Madonna.
The Press Club
- 72 Flinders Street, city
- 9677 9677