Let’s party like it’s nineteen-ninety-something. Take That are touring, Winona Ryder’s back on our screens and everyone’s talking about Donovan Cooke’s latest gastronomic temple. Together with ex-wife Philippa Sibley, Donovan dominated this city’s fine dining scene in the late ’90s with a trio of award-winning restaurants: Est Est Est, Luxe and Ondine. After a break cooking in Hong Kong and at Atlantic at Crown, he’s back running his own show (with business partner, Alex Law).
Not that there’s anything retro about the new Ryne. With its sand-blasted walls and soaring ceiling, the 60-seat dining room oozes 2017 style. So too the technique-focused menu, offered as two courses for $65, three for $80 or seven for $150.
You might start with an entree of slow-cooked marron with pea panna cotta that’s as bright and beautiful in the mouth as it is on the plate, and follow with a main of blushing smoked duck breast spiked with intense flavours of liquorice. But whatever you do, don’t miss dessert – the decadent Valrhona chocolate souffle with three tastes of raspberry (sauce, sorbet and fresh berries) is set to be a classic.
- 203-205 St Georges Road, Fitzroy North
- 9482 3002
Best for \ Romancing serious foodies.
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