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My mother changes when I take her to review a restaurant. Suddenly, she’s on – all adjectives and analogies. “There’s enough spice in this for a child, but not enough to give you hiccups,” she says at Gilson. “You can use that, if you like.”
Thanks, mum. The mild heat is from minced lamb sausage on a stracciatella, cherry tomato and mint pizza, with a chewy crust so good we dip it in the jus gras accompanying the wood-fired spatchcock. A finger bowl appears as we attack the bird’s wings with our hands. Clearly, I’m not adopted.
We also polish off pillowy gnocchi with green peas and flowers – and that’s after honey-drizzled haloumi and beef tartare with oyster cream. Mum even manages to finish a tooth-achingly sweet caramelised white chocolate mousse – she says it’s a carbon copy of butterscotch Angel Delight from her youth.
There’s a European bistro feel at this all-day diner, with its powder-pink finishes, brown leather and marble tabletops.
I expected more oomph from breakfast at Gilson, owned by the team behind Mammoth and Barry. But for a reliable dinner or a spritz overlooking the Tan, this is the place. Just ask my mum.
- 171 Domain Road, South Yarra
- 9866 3120
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