Let Carmine look after you at Pasta Adagio

Gnocci fritto with cured meats. Photo: Michael Rayner

Gnocci fritto with cured meats. Photo: Michael Rayner

Some people treat themselves to a massage. Others get their nails done. But from here on in, my indulgence is a big bowl of Carmine Costantini’s ragu tagliatelle at Pasta Adagio, accompanied by a glass of Nebbiolo. The intensely comforting sauce of beef, pork and veal takes hours to cook and glistens on flat, eggy pasta – the ultimate winter warmer.

The restaurant opened in January, replacing Carmine’s upscale Osteria La Passione. Almost every surface is timber, with basket light fittings that are a far cry from the restaurant’s former degustation days. Pasta is the hero now, and tagliolini al nero – jet black from squid ink with supple calamari and the suggestion of the sea from salmon roe and bottarga – is not far behind the ragu.

Describing food as “pillows” is a cliche, but that’s exactly what the gnocco fritto served with cured meats look like. Thick borlotti bean-studded polenta fingers, fried and finished with chunks of tangy squacquerone cheese, would go down just as well at 2am.

I prefer a big chunk of tiramisu to the one served in a glass here and wait times can be punishing, but such quibbles are forgotten when you remember that ragu.

PASTA ADAGIO

Calzagatti Fritti: Fried polenta and Borlotti beans with fresh Squaquerone cheese. Photo: Michael Rayner.

Calzagatti Fritti: Fried polenta and Borlotti beans with fresh Squaquerone cheese. Photo: Michael Rayner.

Tagliatelle with Carmine’s Ragú Photo: Michael Rayner

Tagliatelle with Carmine’s Ragú Photo: Michael Rayner

Photo: Michael Rayner

Photo: Michael Rayner

Owner chef Carmine in the kitchen. Photo: Michael Rayner.

Owner chef Carmine in the kitchen. Photo: Michael Rayner.

Tagliolini al Nero Squid ink tagliolini, Calamari, Borage, Bottarga & Salmon Caviar Photo: Michael Rayner.

Tagliolini al Nero Squid ink tagliolini, Calamari, Borage, Bottarga & Salmon Caviar Photo: Michael Rayner.

Tiramisu (GF) Photo: Michael Rayner.

Tiramisu (GF) Photo: Michael Rayner.

Glass cabinet filled with produce and meat/deli slicer Photo: Michael Rayner.

Glass cabinet filled with produce and meat/deli slicer Photo: Michael Rayner.

Pasta Adagio

Pasta Adagio

 

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