Experience cuisine with a story at Ben Shewry’s Attica

Photo: supplied

Photo: supplied

Like everything at Attica, this review starts with a story. It’s my story, about how the day before I dined at the best restaurant in Australia, I became a wife and celebrated my birthday. I booked a table at Attica the following night.

The tasting menu’s 19 courses don’t sit heavy or feel rushed. Fingers-only snacks like a two-bite lamb and vegemite pie appeal to patriots and tourists alike.

Attica

Abalone is served beneath a shimmering shell, juicy jumbuck between edible tulip petals, and hot jam doughnuts are by an outdoor fire.

A dish titled An Imperfect History of Ripponlea consists of three mini tarts: my favourite is made with schmaltz and chicken soup jelly and is on par with my grandmother’s chicken soup.

Earlier this year owner and chef Ben Shewry renovated the restaurant in time for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, where Attica was placed 32nd (Australia’s highest-placed eatery).

We disappeared into cushions on the new Prussian blue banquette, which contrasts against marble tables, in the glow of clever lighting that spotlights the food without ruining the mood.

Maybe I dined starry-eyed that night, but as far as I’m concerned, this food is painstakingly personal and tells the kind of story I want to read over and over again.

BEST FOR: At $275 a head for the tasting menu and $185 more for wine matches, Attica is special-occasion material.

 

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