Dawson: The clean plates crowd pleaser in Kew

Brownie with a miso twist

Brownie with a miso twist

Eating for a living has its perks, but I’m more likely to visit a hip wine bar with ’Nduja on the menu than something appropriate for the family. Dawson is a welcome change. What was a whitegoods store for more than 60 years is now a family-friendly restaurant by the same name. I’m surprised to only see three other tables during service one Sunday evening.

Dinner here is crowd-pleasing: we powered through hot saganaki, sticky with honey and fresh figs, my father-in-law attacked golden mac ’n’ cheese croquette soldiers, my mother-in-law scraped prized crispy bits from spicy seafood paella and I scooped roasted lamb shoulder into za’atar flatbread with creamy beetroot labne.

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The pescatarian husband was thrilled with a bubbly edged zucchini and Meredith goat’s cheese pizza from the stone oven. Although nothing left me awestruck, after an hour of chatter, all plates were spotless. That can only mean one thing: time for dessert – a geometric matcha panna cotta and fudgy chocolate brownie with miso caramel.

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