I was cynical about Atlas Dining. What 22-year-old not only opens a restaurant, but also changes cuisine three times a year? Charlie Carrington – now 23 – does.
Charlie, who cooked at Vue de Monde and Sydney’s Firedoor and Marque restaurants, collected stints in overseas kitchens the same way people do passport stamps, before opening last September.
Upon entering, you can smell the leather banquettes and matching cutlery holders. Aqua lines mimic longitudinal and latitudinal markings on distressed walls.
Until May 2, the six-course, $65 menu ($55 extra for matched wines) is a refined interpretation of Israeli fare. Some dishes change from week to week.
Highlights include grilled swordfish shielded by capsicum and hawaij (a Yemeni spice made from turmeric, white pepper and coriander seeds), butter beans blackened on charcoal with enough garlic to cause a divorce, and a dish of fried chickpeas cooked in tomato, jalapeno and green peppers served with sweetbread emulsion and house-baked challah.
I’ll be back in May to see if Charlie pulls off Korean with the same aplomb.
- 133 Commercial Road, South Yarra
- 9826 2621
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