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You’ve heard of school zones driving up property prices, but imagine if you could nab a restaurant booking because you lived locally.
Not that it would have done me much good at Etta in Brunswick East, where I struggle to both afford a house and secure a table. I hadn’t realised the front area, with its alluring figure-eight bar, is reserved for walk-ins.
It’s also a great spot to test out the drinks list – it’s succinct but with something for everyone, from Patient Wolf Gin (made just around the corner), to Etta’s own Yarra Valley Blanc de Blanc.
I recommend booking the dining room ahead of time. Forest-green banquettes mirror a botanical mural, but the handsome marble chef’s table is the place to sit.
I adore the sweetness of Etta’s savoury dishes, like the silky burnt butter served with sourdough and charred carrots beneath snow-like haloumi and hazelnut.
Tagliatelle fashioned from mozzarella with zucchini, and a pine-mushroom tart, creamy with celeriac and Gruyere, are as good as any meatier alternative.
Dessert is a highlight: order the feijoa brulee with Jazz apple sorbet and the herbaceous punch of shiso while it’s in season.
- 60 Lygon Street, Brunswick East
- 9448 8233
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