Marion: The Fitzroy wine bar with a bottle shop double life

Photo: Harvard Wang

Photo: Harvard Wang

There’s more interesting wine than ever in Melbourne. A proliferation of wine bar-bottleshops, new generations of boundary-pushing Australian winemakers and tightly focused independent wine stores and wine importers have shelves teeming with new labels and obscure varieties.

But with choice comes confusion; to avoid the boring retreat to the familiar, you need a guide you can trust. This is where Marion, Andrew McConnell’s Fitzroy wine bar, comes in.

The McConnell stable of restaurants has always had a strong, forward-looking wine approach, one that favours small producers making wine using a variety of methods from classic and old world to low contact and skin contact. In short, all the things that are hot topics.

That’s certainly the case at Marion, which lives a double-life as a bottleshop and has just started a new wine subscription service.

Photo: Havard Wang

Photo: Havard Wang

Named after the laneway running down one side of Marion, Deadman’s Dozen is a monthly selection of a dozen wines chosen by head wine guy at Marion and Cutler & Co, Liam O’Brien – 12 decisions you don’t have to make for $270.

The mix will appeal to anybody interested in wine exploration without getting too funky or feral about it. The dozen comes with excellent, chatty tasting notes for each bottle, which often include food-matching suggestions.

Marion

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