The Weekly Review

Drummond Street is the new Lygon Street. Andrew McConnell’s Three One Two and Nicolas Poelaert’s Embrasse have flown the flag for fine dining here for years, but the off-Lygon experience has gone more distinctly European of late.

Spare a thought for the lot of the reviewer’s companion.

Despite a troubled start, Paris Grill is a well-suited addition to Port Melbourne’s waterside.

Andrew McConnell has great buns. His New England lobster roll is sensuality in an egg-glazed Cantonese hot bread. That first mouthful of cold-poached Australian crayfish seasoned with watercress and dressed in Kewpie, the cult Japanese egg-yolk mayonnaise, is so lascivious it should come with an R18+ rating.

George Calombaris and Shane Delia should have been baseballers, so accurately have they pitched their latest restaurant offering, smack-bang into the nub of Cotham Road.