The Weekly Review

Restaurant two (Maurice Esposito’s second diner)

Fish Dish is a 12-month-old venture owned by Paul Le Noury, who began collecting fish-shaped plates early in a career that began at Stephanie’s in Hawthorn in the late 1980s and continued with Greg Brown at Bouchon in Toorak.

Pei Modern menu is not some colour-by-numbers affair that ticks off current trends but a bespoke list of delicious ideas that showcases produce, quality and technique.

There’s a dogmatic debate at our table over the merits of the potsticker dumpling that lends this suburban restaurant its name.

This week’s column comes direct from my kitchen, where I’m making dinner with a little help from George Calombaris.