If you are looking to stock up on a few bargain wines for midweek winter drinking, it’s worth checking out the second labels of some of Australia’s top wineries. You get quality winemaking, top grapes and, more often than not, good value.
These wines can also be a good introduction into a winery’s style before taking the plunge with their more expensive offerings.
Second labels are often a winemaker’s way of producing a more approachable wine at a price that is usually more affordable – good for everyday drinking. This means the wine will be at its best close to release, although there are some wonderful exceptions to this rule.
Wineries often make a second range under a different label, and you sometimes have to look at the fine print on the back label to see if a wine is second label. The MadFish range, produced by Howard Park in the Margaret River region, is a good example.
Second-label wines can be made from grapes sourced specifically for the wine, often from areas outside the main label’s region, or be made from declassified fruit that didn’t quite make the grade of the winery's premium wine.
Wines made from declassified fruit often reflect the flavour profile and style of the main label but may not display the depth of flavour that can justify a hefty price tag. A couple I have bought in the past are Williams Crossing, which is made by Curly Flat in Macedon, and the Domaines Tatiarra Culled Barrel Shiraz from Heathcote. They are in the $20-$25 region, but their bigger brothers sell for twice the price.
Sometimes, as in the case of Margaret River’s excellent Wine By Brad label, a premium wine brand (Mantra) is launched on the strength of the original range.
Some wineries have a range of brands that offer good value for money while increasing in quality as their price rises.
De Bortoli and Hardy’s are a couple of shining examples of wineries that deliver good value across several price points.
You do get what you pay for in a lot of cases, but I find that the consistent quality of these wines, which are also widely available, makes them a good option when you have to pick up a wine at the last minute from an unfamiliar bottle shop.
LOVE A BARGAIN?
De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir 2009 (Yarra Valley) $19;
13% a/v
4/5
Food match: Veal cutlets with polenta.
Pinot noir is a notoriously tricky grape to grow, and de Bortoli sets the standard when it comes to producing affordable examples with complexity. This wine is no exception. It has aromas of strawberry, red cherry and a slight, stalky earthiness followed by sour and sweet flavours of strawberries and raspberries, with a dry sourness similar to cranberries and a nice spicy aftertaste. It’s light and silky-smooth with fine tannins and a good acid balance. This is a delight, with an even better price tag.
TASTINGS \ DRINK THIS
Wine By Brad Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (Margaret River)
$17; 13.7% a/v
4/5
Food match: Poached chicken salad
This blend of 70 per cent semillon and 30 per cent sauvignon smells of passionfruit, honeysuckle and tropical fruits, with grassy notes coming through from the semillon. It has a wonderfully creamy texture with controlled acidity and juicy fruit flavours of peach and citrus. It screams of its Margaret River provenance, and if you’re looking for a white that’s more food-friendly than a straight sav blanc, give this a go.
Hardy’s Oomoo Shiraz 2007 (McLaren Vale)
$18; 14% a/v
3/5
Food match: Slow-cooked lamb shoulder
The year 2007 was difficult in the McLaren Vale but this wine, although lighter than previous vintages, still delivers excellent value for money. It has aromas of dark cherries, blackberries, mint and chocolate oak. Bright flavours of cherry and redcurrants, with some meaty notes, finish with chewy tannins and a good length. Check the major chains for prices well below the RRP above.
Dance With The Devil Shiraz Tempranillo 2009 (Margaret River)
$25; 14.5% a/v
3½/5
Food match: Potato tortilla
This is the second label of Devil’s Lair (the value Fifth Leg range is cheaper again). Shiraz tempranillo is a blend that I think shows a lot of promise in Australia, and this example has complex aromas of cherries, strawberries and plums, with cedar oak and herbal notes in the background. Complex, sweet flavours of plum, cherries and spice are kept in check by firm, food-friendly acid and fine tannins.
MadFish Gold Turtle Shiraz 2008 (Great Southern)
$30; 14.5% a/v
3½/5
Food match: Lamb and mushroom kebabs
This is at the higher end of the second-label price spectrum, but it’s a good expression of cool-climate southern WA shiraz, of which I’m quite fond. This light, medium-bodied wine has aromas of blackberry, dark cherries, spice and a subtle hint of vanilla oak. It’s smooth in the mouth with plum fruitcake and blackberry flavours with an appealing meatiness that seems common in 2008 Great Southern shiraz. There is good length, too.