Washing the dishes the other night, I broke a wine glass. It was an expensive one – a Riedel Vinum Shiraz, and will cost about $50 to replace – and was also a wedding present.
We got a few different styles of glasses as wedding gifts, all gossamer-thin lead crystal from the same Riedel Vinum range, which are made especially for particular types of wine: shiraz, pinot noir, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and champagne.
It’s probably a bit over the top, having so many glasses. Such a range is certainly impressive with dinner guests, but these glasses are too fragile for the dishwasher and washing up before going to bed always seems to take forever. In these times of consolidation, should I whittle down my stemware? How many do you really need?
A few years ago, a German study used experienced testers to note the intensity of a range of aromas from the same wines (a mixture of reds and whites), each poured into 10 different shapes of glasses. These glasses had different heights, widths and rim diameters and included the international standard ISO glass, used at many wine shows and about twice as high as it is wide.
The boffins at the University of Neustadt’s oenology department found that while the perceptions of aroma intensity varied with each glass, the best results for red and white wines came from the ISO glass.
Unfortunately, these glasses, which you’ve probably tasted from if you’ve ever stopped at a winery cellar door, are quite small and not very impressive. Holding about 50ml and measuring about 15cm high and 6cm at their fattest point, the small bowl can accommodate the requisite tiny splash of wine without making the pourer look cheap. Although many winemakers will point to them being the ideal glass to taste their toils, cellar doors are moving towards larger, more familiar glasses, so the cellarhands had better work on their measly measures!
I’ll keep using my myriad glasses and I’ve replaced the shiraz glass. I could easily forego
the extra washing up, but not the sentiments of the people who’ve given us the glasses.
If you’re in the market for new stemware, I’d suggest getting three types of glasses. One for champagne (we all have a birthday each year), one for white, and a wide-rimmed glass for red.
You don’t need to spend the earth on your glasses, but look for one where the lip has been cut rather than rolled. It should have a nice sharp appearance rather than the roundness of a household tumbler.
Brands to look for include Riedel, Spiegelau and Luigi Bormioli and individual glasses start from $10.
Love a bargain?
Torzi Matthews Schist Rock Shiraz (Eden Valley)
$17; 14.5%
3½/5
From the Eden Valley and a patch of shaley schist rock bed comes this deep, rich and brooding wine. It is made with minimal winemaker intervention using wild yeasts and a gentle basket press to squeeze the grapes – all buzz words that can add extra dollars to the price of a wine, which makes this a lot of wine for just $17. It smells of black and blueberries, almond nougat and cloves. It‘s medium-to-full-bodied and has a deep dark-purple colour. It has flavours of blackberry cordial, stewed plums and hints of black pepper along with a nice meatiness. Fine-grained tannins and slight herbal notes finish the wine off. This is a seriously good price for a lovely winter tipple.
TASTINGS \ DRINK THIS
Katnook Founder’s Block Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV (Coonawarra)
$22; 12% a/v
4/5
Food match: Wild mushroom risotto
There’s no indication on the bottle, but this is pink, or blush, which always puts a smile on my face. From an area not well known for its fizz, this smells like peach, quince, strawberries and cake and has a nice acid balance and structure. The bubbles are not too fizzy, but creamy and moussy with flavours of pear and quince and a dry finish. From the Freixinet stable, and its class shows.
Long Flat Pink Moscato 2009
$9.90; 6% a/v
3/5
Food match: Blueberry pancakes
Low-alcohol Moscato, made from the muscat grape (also known as frontignac for our older readers) has been a bit of a phenomenon of late. I like to think of it as the breakfast wine. Some examples tend to be a bit sweet and cloying for me but this has a nice streak of acid running through it, which helps balance the sweetness. It smells of peach and almond nougat and has fresh, clean flavours of tropical fruits; think mango and pineapple, as well as watermelon.
Solar Viejo Crianza 2006 (Rioja, Spain)
$30; 13% a/v
4/5
Food match: Albóndigas
There are four classes of Rioja, and this is the second. To earn the name Crianza, the wine must be aged for two years and spend six months on oak before it can be released. Made from 100 per cent tempranillo, this is old-school Rioja and relies on a fine structure rather than bold fruit flavours for its drive. It has aromas of cola, cherries and plum with a hint of spicy oak. Balanced acidity and fine-grained tannins are supported by blackberry and slightly herbal flavours.
Mount Avoca Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (Pyrenees)
$25; 13.5% a/v
4/5
Food match: Shepherd’s pie
I’ve tasted four 2008 reds from Mount Avoca now and each has its charms. They are all good value, too. This has a complex mix of aromas – blackberry, redcurrants, chocolate, pencil oak and eucalypt – and a lovely finesse in the mouth. It’s medium-bodied with food-friendly, drying tannins and has flavours of blackcurrants, chocolate and red berries. \