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The other day, I checked out a $1.99 bottle of chardonnay at one of the major chains, and it wasn’t bad. It got me thinking about the ever-increasing monopolies of the big alcohol retailers, which flog bargain-basement bottles of wine that the public continues to snap up. We know these cheap prices don’t help the bottom line of the smaller wineries, but when they manage to deliver low prices on a large range of wine, why would you go anywhere else?
For an ongoing relationship, expert advice and something new, that’s why. It can be hard to find good, old-fashioned service between the long aisles in a booze megamarket. The kid at the register probably doesn’t know you prefer cool-climate shiraz and is unlikely to suggest you should try one of their favourites.
To get good service, you’re better off heading to a good local, independent bottle shop. But what constitutes good?
For me, it’s diversity, friendly staff and a good website. I want to be able to walk in to a shop and get good advice without feeling like I’m being judged on what I like and how much I want to spend.
I live in Richmond, and there’s really not much that fits the bill near me, so I tend to order online or wander further afield to browse a few aisles.
My favourite wine shops, in no particular order, are:
Cloudwine, 317 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne
Has a good range of small producers and the varied selection isn’t too big to be confusing.
Boccaccio Cellars, 1030 Burke Road, Balwyn
Has a solid range of hard-to-find local and imported wines. The family behind the shop also produces its own wine, the great quality and value Hoddles Creek range and imports a load of European wines. Their own range of cleanskins is better quality than most.
Prince Wine Store, 177 Bank Street, South Melbourne
Features an excellent range of top-end local and imported wines and has super-knowledgeable staff. It, too, imports a range of old- and new-world wines and the regular Saturday tastings are not to be missed.
LOVE A BARGAIN?
d’Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz 2008 (McLaren Vale) $18; 14.5 per cent a/v hhhh Food match: Steak and kidney pie. I’ve been a fan of the rustic charms of The Footbolt for a while now. At first, this smelt like an antique shop full of French-polished furniture (20 months on a mix of new and old oak can do that) but quickly revealed aromas of violets, dark berries and a hint of leather. In the glass, it’s the colour of midnight and has concentrated flavours of stewed blackberries and plums with a hint of spice and black pepper. The Footbolt has a pedigree of ageing well, and this should be no exception. I have a stash of the 2001 vintage that I’m still enjoying.
Kirrihill Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
(Clare Valley)
$15; 14.5 per cent a/v
3½/5
Food match: Midweek pizza
The Kirrihill wines I have tried are all good value, and this is no exception. Made from grapes from two vineyards in the Clare Valley, this shows aromas of redcurrants, violet and plums with a hint of pencil oak that are followed by flavours of cassis, stewed plum and chocolate oak. This
is almost full-bodied with fine, ripe tannins and well
worth trying.
Val Joanis Reserve Les Girottes Syrah 2006
(Rhone Valley, France)
$42; 13.5 per cent a/v
4/5
Food match: Daube of beef
From the appellation of Luberon in the southern part of the Rhone Valley, this straight shiraz is a far cry from the blockbuster style Australia has made famous. It’s peppery and minerally with bright-red fruits and has a herbaciousness you often get with southern Rhone reds. It’s medium bodied and quite dry, which belies its sweet fruit fragrance, and tastes of dark cherries and plums
with some pepper spice.
Evans & Tate Classic White 2009
(Margaret River)
$20; 12.5 per cent a/v
3/5
Food match: Chicken tikka masala
From the home of the semillon/sav blanc blend, Margaret River, this harmonious combination of
semillon and sauvignon blanc has aromatic scents of gooseberries and tropical fruits with grassy,
herbal notes. It’s racy acid and flavours of lemon, peach and pear combine well in this dry, refreshing wine.
Quarry Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2009
(Canberra)
$16; 12.5 per cent a/v
3/5
Food match: Chicken with chilli and lemongrass
From a cool-climate region better known for riesling and its reds comes this fresh sauvignon blanc. Aromas are on the herbaceous end of the sav blanc spectrum mixed with quince and tropical fruits. It has flavours of lemongrass, gooseberry and tropical fruits and comes with a lovely mouthfeel and a crisp, dry finish. It’s a more subtle wine than many Kiwi sav blancs and is certainly better suited to food.
WIN
In fewer than 50 words, let us know what your favourite bottle shop is and why you like it. In a few weeks, The Weekly Review will publish its favourite letters, and if your is judged to be the best letter printed, you will win six bottles of Shaw Estate Vineyards' cabernet sauvignon from the Canberra region. Email bottleshop@theweeklyreview.com.au with your entries.